So, You Wanna Eat Your Way Through Mexico City? Let’s Talk Street Food.
Alright, let’s cut to the chase. Mexico City isn’t just a city you visit; it’s a city that hits you. First, it’s the smell. The second you step out of the airport, the air changes. It’s a wild mix of diesel fumes, sure, but underneath that… there it is. The unmistakable scent of charring corn, sizzling meat, and lime. Always lime. Forget the fancy restaurants for a minute—the real action, the soul of this place, is happening on the sidewalk. This is your no-nonsense guide to eating like you mean it.
1. Tacos. Obviously. But Which Ones?
Look, calling a taco “street food” in CDMX is like calling the metro “a way to get around.” It’s an understatement. Tacos are the baseline, the currency, the thing that makes this chaotic, beautiful city make sense.
Tacos al Pastor: The Main Event
You can’t miss these. You’ll see the vertical spits of meat—trompos—glowing like delicious beacons on every other corner. This is the city’s signature move, a gift from Lebanese immigrants that Mexico took and ran with. Pork, marinated in a crazy number of chilies and achiote, gets stacked high and slow-roasted. The guy (it’s almost always a guy) shaves it off in thin, crispy-edged strips right onto a tiny corn tortilla.
Here’s the pro move: he’ll usually tap a piece of pineapple on top at the very end. That sweet, juicy punch with the savory pork? Chef’s kiss. Don’t be shy with the onions, cilantro, and lime. And the salsa… maybe start with the green one. The red one can be… an adventure.
- Where to go: Everyone talks about El Huequito, and yeah, it’s legit. But sometimes the best al pastor is at the random, packed spot with plastic stools on the curb. Orinoco is a solid bet if you need a name, but trust the crowd. If there’s a line of taxi drivers, get in it.
Tacos de Suadero: The Unsung Hero
If al pastor is the rockstar, suadero is the skilled session musician. It’s a specific cut of beef—kinda from the belly—that they boil until it’s tender, then throw on a giant, well-loved steel griddle called a comal. It fries in its own juices next to sausages and tripe, getting this incredible texture: tender inside, slightly crispy outside. It’s not fancy. It’s just stupidly good, especially at 2 AM. The tortilla gets a quick dip in the greasy comal magic, and you get just onion and cilantro on top. Perfection in its simplest form.
- My spot: Los Cocuyos. A literal hole in the wall near the Zócalo. It’s open at all hours and is a rite of passage. Don’t overthink it. Just point and eat.
Tacos de Canasta: The Breakfast of Champions
These are “basket tacos,” and they’re the ultimate grab-and-go. They’re pre-made, steamed, and kept warm in baskets lined with cloth. The result? The tortillas get super soft and almost melt in your mouth, soaked in the flavor of the fillings—usually beans, potato, or my favorite, chicharrón prensado (which is way better than it sounds). They’re a little greasy, super cheap, and sold from bicycles or giant baskets. They come with a fiery salsa that’ll wake you up faster than coffee.
2. Okay, But What If You Need a Fork? Or More Bread?
Tacos are life, but variety is the spice of life, right?
The Torta: A Sandwich That Means Business
Calling a torta a sandwich feels wrong. It’s a behemoth. They take a soft, fluffy roll called a telera, slather it with beans and avocado, and then pile on… well, anything. Breaded chicken cutlet (milanesa), shredded pork (pierna), you name it. Then come the pickled jalapeños, the tomatoes, the onions. It’s a wild ride of textures and temperatures in every single bite. One of these things can fuel you for a whole day of sightseeing. No joke.
Tostadas: The Edible Plate
A tostada is just a crispy, flat, fried tortilla used as a base for a pile of toppings. It’s like an open-faced sandwich, Mexican style. You’ll find them with shredded chicken tinga, ceviche, or even pata (that’s pig’s foot salad, for the brave). They’re topped with lettuce, cream, and cheese. Eating one without making a mess is basically an Olympic sport. Embrace the crunch—and the mess.
3. The Corny Stuff (In a Good Way)
Corn is everything here. And these two are classics.
The Great Quesadilla Debate
This confuses every tourist. You order a quesadilla, and the vendor might ask, “¿Con queso o sin queso?” …Wait, “with or without cheese?” Isn’t that the point? Not always in Mexico City. Here, “quesadilla” often just means a folded tortilla, and the filling is the star: squash blossoms, mushrooms, huitlacoche (this amazing corn fungus), whatever. Cheese is an optional extra. It’s a whole thing. Just go with it.
Gorditas: The Perfect Pocket
Gordita means “chubby little one,” which is exactly what these are. A thick, oval-shaped cake made from corn dough, cooked on the comal, then sliced open and stuffed like a pita pocket with beans, cheese, or meats in salsa. The outside gets a little crisp, but the inside stays soft and warm. So satisfying.
4. Sweet Stuff. Because You’ve Earned It.
Elote & Esquites: Corn, But Dessert?
You’ll hear the whistle of the elotero (the corn guy) everywhere. Elote is corn on the cob, grilled, then slathered with mayo, rolled in crumbled cheese and chili powder, and doused with lime. It’s messy, savory, sweet, and spicy all at once. Esquites is the same thing, but in a cup. Less messy, just as delicious.
Churros: The OG Fried Dough
The smell is irresistible. Fried dough sticks, rolled in cinnamon sugar, served with a cup of thick, rich hot chocolate for dipping. El Moro has been doing this since 1935, and they’ve got it down to a science. It’s a non-negotiable experience, especially at night.
Paletas: Nature’s Candy… on a Stick
These aren’t your average popsicles. Paletas are a serious business. You’ve got the fruity, ice-based ones (de agua) that are bursting with real flavor—like biting into a frozen mango. Or the creamy, custard-like ones (de crema) made with real milk. The mango con chile (mango with chili) is a life-changing sweet-and-spicy combo.
The Real Deal: Hit the Markets
If the streets are the arteries, the markets are the heart.
- Mercado de San Juan: For the adventurous. I saw ostrich meat and giant snails last time. It’s wild.
- Mercado Roma: The fancy, modern cousin. Good for a cool drink and some artisanal bites if you need a break from the chaos.
- La Merced: This place is… intense. Overwhelming. And absolutely amazing. It’s a city within a city, and the food stalls are dirt-cheap and incredible. Go hungry. Maybe go with a friend.
Some Real Talk Before You Go:
- Cash. Is. King. Don’t even bother with cards at a street stall.
- See a crowd? Join it. A line of locals is the best review you can get.
- Salsa Warning: That dark, ominous salsa in the molcajete (stone bowl)? It’s probably lethal. Taste a tiny bit first. Trust me.
- Try the weird stuff. Huitlacoche is delicious, I promise. It’s like earthy, savory mushrooms.
- A little Spanish goes a long way. “Uno de estos, por favor” (one of these, please) and “gracias” will get you smiles.
So yeah. That’s it. Go wander. Follow your nose. Eat something you can’t pronounce. That’s how you find the real Mexico City. Now get out there.
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